DawgTalkers.net Forums DawgTalk Tailgate Forum Water Heater Problem

Hey y'all, it's been a while since I started a thread, but I am having an issue and I know there are a lot of knowledgable peeps on here when it comes to the house. So here goes,,

I have a Lochnivar 40/gal water heater that was installed by a friend of a friend less than a year ago. I shut the gas off for 2 days while the meter was getting replaced and when I went to turn it back on the pilot lights just fine but the burner won't kick on. When I move the thermostat to medium or hot it clicks and there it usually you hear the wooosh and it lights but not anymore.

Doing some research online didn't get me too far as the diagrams were vague. The one thing that kept coming up was a thermocouple. From what I saw when I opened it up it seems to be working since the pilot light is on all the time no problem.
There is a piece that 2 wires connect to that is screwed on the outside of the inside door (where the glass to look into the chamber is) that I think may have gone bad. It just doesn't make sense to me after having it off that all the sudden it stops working properly. The manual says the thermocouple is resettable and it may have tripped b/c of high heat or something. However, I have no clue how to go about resetting it and I believe it is where the pilot light it. One of the diagrams it looked like it was located on the outside of the inside door like I mentioned, Also having my neighbor look at it he informed me the exhaust vent was done improperly as it's too low and the douche used flex tubing instead of solid metal vent It was kinda crushed at the bottom and now I understand we have been exposed to gas fumes. Now I have to knock a hole in the chimney and do it right, joy joy
I can no longer get a hold of the ass that installed it for us and am stumped. Anyone have any ideas? I don't really have the cash to get a plumber out here as they are expensive so I am going to try to do it by myself.

(1) Some of those pilot ignitors, you have to hold 'em down a little longer than it seems necessary in order to keep the pilot lit.

(2) If it's "whooshing" then going out after a good pilot is lit, then that sounds like the thermocouple.

If there is no "whoosh", the gas isn't even getting sent... but I'm confused on why you'd hear a click and then not get the gas.



If it is a newer furnace, check the manufacturer website for your Model # and check to see if it is still under warranty. If nothing else, the manufacturer may be able to give you more insight as to what may be wrong (e.g. maybe there is a Re-start procedure after it being offline for a while).


http://www.lochinvar.com/products/search.aspx

No the pilot light has no problem at all lighting or staying lit. It's just the burner won't ignite. And it doesn't make that "whoosh" sound at all. The thermostat clicks when you turn it up but nothing happens It's frustrating.

If there is a whooosh and it lights, but then goes out, that is usually just a dirty flame-sensor (or, at least that is what it is on a furnace). If the flame sensor doesn't get "x" Hot within a few seconds of the gas going on, it determines that the unit didn't light, and it shuts off the gas.

Correcting this is as easy as grabbing some steel wool and cleaning the exterior of the sensor, which is just a thing protruding up into the area where there is normally flame - looks kinda like this (will vary by unit)


http://www.saveonheatingandcooling.com/images/flame_sensor_clean.jpg

Also... note the strength, shape and color of the pilot light:



If the pilot lights but the flame is a weak yellow flame, it will not get hot enough to heat the thermocouple to its set point allowing the gas valve to open.

A natural gas flame should be a bright blue with the tip of the flame having just a tinge of yellow. A propane flame should have a bluish green flame with a tinge of yellow at the tip. The flame should be strong enough to hit the thermocouple tip about 1/2 inch from the tip end. If the flame is weak or shaky looking, check to see that a breeze or draft is not blowing on it.

Adjusting the Flame
There is usually a small screw on the pilot valve body that will adjust the flame. You may have to refer to the manufacturer's instructions to find the screw. Turn the screw as needed to adjust the flame throw.

Yellow Flame
A yellow flame is caused by lack of air and incomplete combustion. It can be caused by a dirty pilot tube tip.

Split Flame
This is caused by dirt in the pilot tube. Take a needle or small nail and gently clean the tube.

Flickering or Wavering Flame
A flame that flickers is usually caused by a draft.

Quote:

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If there is a whooosh and it lights, but then goes out, that is usually just a dirty flame-sensor (or, at least that is what it is on a furnace).

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No it doesn't light at all. No whoosh sound. All it does is click like it's supposed to right before it lights but nothing happens.

Quote:

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A natural gas flame should be a bright blue with the tip of the flame having just a tinge of yellow. A propane flame should have a bluish green flame with a tinge of yellow at the tip. The flame should be strong enough to hit the thermocouple tip about 1/2 inch from the tip end.

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And yes I made sure it was in the "on" position

The flame is very good. Big, blue with yellowish orange glow at top. If the thermocouple is what I think it is it looks to be touching it almost directly, or that is the elctrode that sparks to light the pilot light. I couldn't tell how gas gets to the burner to be honest. I wish I could find my friken camera to take sum pics.

It's natural gas Arch and I do have it opened all the way to feed gas in. Like I said I have zero problems lighting the tank but the burner to actually heat the dam thing won't ignite. I am strongly thinking thermocouple,,I just don't wanna waste my cash, though they are relatively cheap. The thing that is bothering me is the manual says it can be "reset" and I have no clue how to do it or where.



The thing is less than a year old so I am sure it's covered under warranty. I have to find the paperwork and see,,or else if it wasn't I'd just replace the damn thing and be done with it,,grrrr.

THX FOR the diagram pic Prp. If I think I know what the thermocouple is and the outside does have black on it like it was burned, so I'll try cleaning it off tomorrow and see what happens. I'm not holding my breath though

So 337, did you get it working?

What was the problem?